I apologize for my absence, it’s been nuts around work. I will be able to test and report back in about 24 hours. Thank you so very much for looking into this!
Very late reply here - been a bit absent lately as work has been super busy and I have a baby on the way! - I am also working on a CIC-HU replacement 
But I did not have the time to create a proper bench setup yet.
I suspect you’ll need the CIC in the loop as a network master or the decoder box - even with the box connected the PiMOST should be able to hijack the stream
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The issue with running the pimost as the master, even if the drivers were written to support it. Is that the oscillator crystal is for 48khz. To run at 44.1khz it needs a 16.9344 (iirc) crystal instead.
I’ve managed to source some crystals in the correct foot print, and I have also purchased a MULF2 High unit. So when it arrives I will test the crystals out and if all is well I am happy to ship some out FOC to you 44.1khz guys. Should be very simple to replace using a hot air gun. Even if you don’t want to run as master, it does allow the use of enhanced bypass
I will need to run as a master as I have nothing else in the car now that is on the MOST bus. Just my head unit and the amp. That’s excellent news about the crystal. I have no issue replacing it on the board, just let me know. Again, thank you for your continued attention.
Hey there! It’s been a while, hope you’ve been well. I got slammed with life. A huge move, business launch, etc. I’d like to re-visit this and get it working. I’m currently designing V3 of the head unit. By using your board, I can eliminate the MOST converter I am currently using as well as my CanBus Hat. Would you be interested in helping get this running?
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Keen to see what you have as a head unit today! Are you re-using the CIC screen?
No, I sourced the original screen and matched it to an HDMI controller. This way I can use the factory hood. It looks just like factory screen, because it is, but my head unit. And hopefully Rhys MOST interface soon! (I need to run as a master, since I have completely removed the CIC, so I must replace the onboard crystal.)
If you are interested in doing this screen conversion yourself, I’ll send you the part numbers and where I got them. You will need 4 things: The 8.8 inch screen, the touch overlay, the controller for the screen, as well as the interface/controller for the touch overlay. I can give you links to all of them. You will also need an adapter bracket for all the hardware. I designed an adapter bracket that screws into the ‘aftermarket’ factory hood screw holes and holds the interface boards, as well as a dedicated fan to cool the LCD interface board, which has heatsinks on all chips. This in a car, and the car lives in Las Vegas, it’s 108 in the shade here during the day right now
If you would like a pre-built unit shipped to you I can do that. It will arrive plug n play ready, Just needs USB, HDMI, and 12v in. You can drop our screen in place of the factory one, direct fit, no mods needed. I’ll include a spare bracket as you can only get those from me (until someone copies it). I can also sell you just the bracket so you won’t have to go through the headache of designing one. I can’t give you the STL, but I can sell you 1 of 2 of them for a reasonable price.
The only pain in this entire process, is snaking the cables down the backside of where the screen is. It’s a very tight fit, and tricky, but with patience, is very doable.
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